Autorin: Tays Jennifer Köper-KelemenTextiel Factorij (TF) is a project that brings together designers, artists and craftspeople, mainly from the Netherlands and India. They learn to understand each other’s needs, requirements, working methods and cultures, exchange knowledge. Together, they take the time and have the attention to experiment, try things out, fail, understand and create. Style and the Gang asked social designer and founder Lipika Bansal about her project and intentions.
Style and the Gang: Briefly explained: What is the concept of Textiel Factorij?
Lipika Bansal:„Textiel Factorij (TF) is a platform rooted in reciprocity, facilitating connections among artists, designers, and craftspeople from India and other countries, with a focus on the Netherlands, where I am based. Emphasizing the significance of origin and narratives, TF delves into textile heritage, trade routes, and politics, both past and present. Collaboratively crafted artworks and designs are showcased in museum settings and cultural centers, with careful acknowledgment of the craftspeople involved to ensure equal recognition for all contributors. TF looks after the development of collections by encouraging artists and designers to collaborate with artisans, fostering long-term partnerships. Additionally, TF directly engages with craftspeople who uphold generations-old techniques, preserving and passing on their invaluable knowledge.“
Which crafts and techniques can be found in your portfolio?
„I work with a wide range of craft techniques from across India, each with its own unique historical evolution and embedded within local cultures and materials. For instance, block printing varies significantly across regions, with distinct dye-making methods, visual languages, and communities, including Ajrakh, Bagh, Bagru, Jajam, Kalamkari, and Sanganeri. I work closely with diverse block printing communities and tie & dye artisans, specializing in techniques like bandhani, bandhej, and leheriya. The dyes used are mainly botanical. Additionally, I collaborate with Banarasi weavers, renowned for their fine silks, as well as carpet weavers (using wool and cotton), weavers working with indigenous cottons, and women who make quilts using textile scraps, but at the same time can create the finest embroideries. TF also engages in innovative projects such as upcycling plastic waste into vibrant handwoven products, Furthermore, we conduct research for our clients on specific techniques, continuously expanding our network.“
Is it possible to realize small collections or lines with you?
„One of TF’s objectives is to assist designers in creating small-scale collections and production lines. While many artists and designers thrive in the creative process, navigating the complexities of developing collections and establishing production lines in countries like India poses numerous challenges. These challenges include communication, sample development, quality control, and managing the export process, which involves handling paperwork, taxes, and duties. Establishing long-term collaborations is crucial for artisans to preserve their traditions and narratives for future generations.“
Do you support the entire process or do you also offer partial services?
„I genuinely enjoy being involved in the entire process, witnessing how the project evolves from researching history and making processes to designing, product development, and finally receiving the collection. However, it’s vital to establish trust with craftspeople by having one main contact person for them to reconfirm progress. Additionally, I definitely offer partial services like specific research, supplier communication, and importing your goods to accommodate diverse needs and preferences.“
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We cooperate! This article was written in cooperation with the international platform for ethical fashion www.styleandthegang.com. Whether from Tokyo, Kilifi, Barcelona or Bali – on their website the editors Tays Jennifer Köper-Kelemen and Nina Elyas present unusual, socially committed and ethical fashion brands with cross-cultural concepts from all over the world. Curated designers tell their stories of craftsmanship, and what it means to create fashion with added value.